I Scream Bravo! for Avocado

I assume many people immediately think of guacamole when avocados are mentioned, but for me they’re in that pantheon of fruit that is so perfectly ready-to-eat that I can’t stand the thought of mashing it up into a chip dip. I read that in native Central America it’s sometimes referred to as a “butter pear,” [...]

Salmon Rillettes

"Kwagulth the Salmon," by Tony Hunt

I’ve written elsewhere that I was a vegetarian for seven years. I don’t regret that period of meat-phobia, or inflammation of the compassion, or whatever it was, because it taught me how to cook. I learned an awful lot about pasta sauce, for example, and in particular a certain [...]

Linonophobia – the Fear of String

If you’re anything like me, you avoid recipes that involve string as a matter of principle. String is fiddly and fussy and it never stays on the lump of meat you are supposedly trussing (and I know how to tie a knot, all right? I was a boat builder for years, dammit). The ultimate annoying [...]

Fry Bread, Ennit?

“Once my people hunted buffalo in the plains that surrounded this place,” said Virgil, serving up his buffalo chili. “Now, I just have to go to Fred Meyer for it.”

Virgil, my guide, was showing me how to make the most traditional of non-traditional Native American foods, fry bread. Fry bread, Virgil explained, is one of [...]