Messing with Tradition

The main problem with snacks is that the best tend to be regional, which is all well and good if you still happen to live about twenty miles from where you grew up and formed your first impressions of the world, but heartbreaking when you live three orders of magnitude further away, as I do. [...]

Tapas Delight, or Living in a Catalan Paradise

An average small tapas selection

Although 10am is a perfectly acceptable time to start drinking in Spain, God help you if you try to get a drink at 4pm. That’s because Spain shuts down in the afternoon, or at least the eating and drinking part of it, in preparation for the nightly phantasmagorical [...]

A Pressing Matter

Gnerally, I’m a sucker for any dish that takes three days to make. To my mind, cooking is often far too efficient. Getting dinner on the table with minimum fuss, though often a sad necessity, is seldom a rewarding experience. It’s just another chore to be done. Spending time on a meal, real time, feels [...]

Almonds as Poems

When he returns to the kitchen for his coffee, he hears a crackling upon the stove–the whole almonds, slightly blistered from toasting in the oven and poured into the newly-oiled cast iron, are cooling.

He leans into the volume of husks cracking, and listens to almonds. they speak of their journey through [...]

The Secret of Soffritto

Clam diggers on the Pacific coast

Every year during the clam tides, diggers flock to the clam beds near Ocean Shores, Washington, to dig their limit of 15 tender, succulent razor clams. The determination of these people is admirable because there can’t be a much more miserable thing to do at 2am than stand in [...]

The Daily Grinds in Hawaii

Hawaiian Chilli Pepper Water

8 small hot red peppers (Hawaiian, ideally, but birdseye will do), chopped

2 slices ginger

1 clove garlic, smashed

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

about 2 cups hot water

Sterilize a pint jar. Place in it the peppers, ginger, garlic, vinegar and salt. Add the hot water, seal the jar, and let mellow a few days [...]